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Marquise Diamond Guide: Ratio, Size, Points and Settings

A marquise is a long brilliant with a point at each end, sometimes called a navette, and it gives more visible length per carat than any other classic shape. That generosity has conditions: the outline must mirror itself in two directions, the bow-tie must stay faint, and both tips need metal around them. We source marquise diamonds on request; for stones ready now, browse our certified loose diamonds or build your ring around one from stock.

Quick answer: A good marquise has a length-to-width ratio of roughly 1.85 to 2.10, tips that sit on one straight line, matching sides, a bow-tie that fades as the stone moves and a V-prong or bezel on each point. It looks bigger than a round of equal weight. diamonds.com.lb sources certified natural marquise diamonds on request.

The navette outline

Picture the hull of a small boat seen from above: two gently curved sides that meet in a sharp point at either end. Its other name, navette, is the French word for a weaver’s shuttle, which has the same boat-like outline. A popular legend ties the name marquise to the French court and the smile of a noblewoman; whatever its truth, the word stuck.

Underneath, a marquise is faceted as a brilliant, so it throws the lively sparkle of a round. What sets it apart is geometry. A pear is symmetrical along one axis only; a marquise must be symmetrical along two, lengthwise and crosswise. That double test is why a fine one is hard to cut.

Why a marquise looks bigger than its weight

Of the classic shapes, the marquise spreads its carat over the longest outline. As a rough illustration, a 1 carat marquise is typically around 10 millimetres from tip to tip, while a well-cut 1 carat round measures about 6.4 millimetres across. Exact figures depend on proportions, so compare the measurements printed on each report rather than the weight alone (our guide to carat versus size on the hand explains the logic).

Set north-south, along the finger, that length draws a line from knuckle toward nail and makes the whole hand look longer and slimmer. Presence without a heavy carat figure is the shape’s great argument.

Ratio: how long is too long?

Length divided by width gives the ratio; both measurements sit on the report, as shown in our guide to reading a GIA report. The figures below are guidelines that most buyers find pleasing, not grading standards.

Ratio (guideline)OutlinePractical note
Under about 1.75Wide and stubby, points look shortCan read as an oval with corners
About 1.75 to 1.85Fuller body, softer lookA little less length on the finger
About 1.85 to 2.10The classic boat, balanced and crispWhere most buyers end up
Over about 2.10Needle-slim with long, fine tipsStriking, but the points are finer still

Symmetry in two directions

The eye compares one end with the other instantly, so small faults show on the hand. On a face-up frame of the video, check that:

  • a line drawn tip to tip cuts the stone into two equal halves, with neither point bent off the axis;
  • the widest part sits in the exact middle, not shifted toward one end;
  • both points have the same length and sharpness;
  • the two wings bow out by the same amount. One flat side makes the stone look lopsided.

GIA gives fancy shapes no overall cut grade, only polish and symmetry. For a shape this exacting, many buyers treat Very Good symmetry as a floor, then let their eye decide.

The bow-tie in a long stone

The longer the brilliant, the more room for a dark band across its centre, and the marquise often shows one of the stronger bow-ties among fancy shapes. A mild one is part of its character. The test is motion: as the stone rocks, a good bow-tie lightens and breaks into flashes, while a poor one stays the same heavy black at every angle and steals the middle of the diamond. Judge each sourced candidate on video where one is available, and ask us which we would pass on.

Two points to protect

A pear has one fragile tip. A marquise has two, at opposite ends, and each one is thin enough to chip if it takes a direct knock. Good practice:

  • a V-prong wrapping each point, with further prongs along the sides; or a bezel, full or partial, that folds metal around both tips;
  • a girdle that is not described as extremely thin at either end;
  • no feather (a small internal fracture) reaching toward a tip.

Colour and clarity at the ends

Body colour tends to collect in the narrow points, so a marquise can look warmer at each end than in the middle. For white gold or platinum, one or two colour grades higher than you would pick for a round keeps it crisp; yellow and rose gold absorb the warmth. Clarity is forgiving: brilliant facets disguise small inclusions well, as our colour and clarity chart and eye-clean guide explain. Be strict only about anything sitting in a tip.

Settings: north-south, east-west and vintage

  • Classic solitaire, north-south. The full length runs along the finger: see our solitaire engagement rings.
  • East-west. Turned across the band, the marquise becomes a horizontal flash of light, modern and low-key.
  • Vintage. The shape has a long history in antique and retro jewellery, so milgrain edges, engraved shoulders and clusters suit it naturally: browse vintage engagement rings.
  • Accents. Side-stone and pavé bands extend the line; a twisted band or cathedral shoulders soften it.

Rings are made to order in 18K white, yellow or rose gold or platinum, in about a week to ten days. Designs drawn for a marquise centre:

See all 17 settings in this style

Getting a marquise in Lebanon

We do not keep marquise diamonds in our Beirut stock at the moment, so each one is found for you. Message us on WhatsApp with the carat range, colour, clarity, a preferred ratio and your budget. We then search the international diamond pipeline for natural, GIA- or HRD-certified stones, typically within 2 to 3 weeks, and send the shortlist with report numbers you can check on the laboratory’s website.

On price: fancy shapes, the marquise included, are benchmarked against a different Rapaport list from rounds, and a marquise usually costs less than a round of the same weight and grades. See how we price. Once you choose, a deposit holds the stone, and you pay the balance on collection by appointment in Beirut or on free insured delivery within Greater Beirut. Buying from abroad? The diaspora page explains collecting on arrival, and our pear and shapes guides cover its relatives.

Common questions about marquise diamonds

What is the ideal ratio for a marquise diamond?

As a guideline, roughly 1.85 to 2.10 gives the classic, balanced boat shape. Under about 1.75 the stone looks stubby and wide; over about 2.10 it turns needle-slim, with finer tips that need careful setting. Beyond that, it is a question of taste.

Does a marquise diamond look bigger than a round of the same carat?

Yes. A marquise spreads its weight along the longest outline of the classic shapes: a 1 carat marquise is typically around 10 millimetres long, against about 6.4 millimetres across for a round. Check each report’s measurements, as proportions vary.

Are marquise diamonds fragile?

The two points are the weak spots, not the diamond as a whole. Protected by a V-prong or bezel at each tip, with no feather near either end and a girdle that is not extremely thin there, a marquise is perfectly suited to everyday wear.

How much does a marquise diamond ring cost in Lebanon?

It depends on carat, colour, clarity and the setting. Fancy shapes are priced against a separate Rapaport list, and a marquise usually costs less than a round of the same weight and grades. diamonds.com.lb quotes each sourced stone and the finished ring on WhatsApp, with the certificate for every option.

Can I buy a marquise diamond through diamonds.com.lb?

Yes, on request. diamonds.com.lb sources natural, GIA- or HRD-certified marquise diamonds to your specification, typically within 2 to 3 weeks. Send the carat, colour, clarity and budget on WhatsApp; the stone is then reserved with a deposit and collected by appointment in Beirut or delivered within Greater Beirut.

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